Full Moon Pooja

While British agent Colonel Tod described Udaipur in 1829 as the “most romantic spot on the continent of India,” once we arrive, it becomes clear that locals feel its true claim to fame is as the setting for Octopussy.

We have seen Jag Mandir glowing at sunset from the shoreline and decide if it’s good enough for 007, it’s worth the boatride out there, but our dreams of a martini—shaken, not stirred—are crushed when we are told it is closed for the next five nights, three in preparation for a lavish wedding, for which they appear to be welding a 5 story structure.

 

Dejected, we head back to our hotel, thinking we’ll have to settle for a gin and tonic staring at our island dream with sunset far in the distance. 




 But then we stumble on Puja/Pooja in Progress. 

We are aware tonight is full-moon but unprepared for the hundreds of mothers and daughters at the Gangaur ghat, all preparing small raffs with homemade candles.  

They use powdered dyes to tint rocks and color the candles, fruit, incense and rose petals are all part of the Pooja, as are the swastikas—a Hindu and Jain symbol for good luck which Hitler perverted.  These they shape from rice and wheat berries. 

Just as the sun sets and the moon rises, the women scramble to launch their creations, making gentle waves to send them from shore.  Some pray intently as their burning rafts float away; others giggle, wave and jump up and down, giddy at the sight. 

As always, we think we’re getting a handle on what’s happening, only to discover we have no real clue.  


































Given the care and intensity shown in the preparation, we’re surprised there isn’t more outrage when boys on the sidelines start diving in and doing cannonballs in an apparent effort to swamp the flotilla.

Meanwhile a few other boys swim over to break up a log jam of puja rafts, gently towing each into open water. We’re even more confused when a few of the women begin pelting painted stones at the boats they've just lovingly crafted and launched.  The goal seems to be to rock and roll but not ruin the shaky crafts.  

And, as usual, we are connecting dots to create an explanation that my have no bearing on the situation at hand.  What we do know is what we can sense, and the mood is electric.  




Clearly everyone enjoys a good Pooja--even the cows! 

John’s puja is answered later that evening with a lakeside gin and tonic under the moonlight and Kate finds Mewar Boat Company which offers tours of Lake Pichola, so we get our up close sunset view of the Jag Mandir the following evening.  

Next step:  watch Octopussy!